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Part 1: Original Categories — Revised (courses 1–2660) beginner

Herb gardening for everyday use

Duration0 hours
Modules7
ForGeneral public, lifelong learners
Video1-2min
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Course outline

Module 1 Module 1: Choosing the Right Herbs

Choosing the Right Herbs

Introduction

Core content I

Core content II

Core content III

Summary

Further learning

Knowledge check

Q1. Which of the following herbs is generally considered the easiest for a beginner to grow indoors on a sunny windowsill?
  • A. Basil
  • B. Mint ✓
  • C. Rosemary
  • D. Lavender

Why: Mint is very vigorous and tolerant of a range of conditions, including partial shade and inconsistent watering, making it one of the most forgiving herbs for beginners. Basil also grows well indoors but prefers warmth and more consistent care.

Q2. When choosing herbs for everyday cooking, which factor should you consider first?
  • A. How rare the herb is in stores
  • B. How often you actually use the herb in your meals ✓
  • C. How tall the plant grows at maturity
  • D. How expensive the seeds are

Why: Choosing herbs you cook with regularly ensures you will harvest and use them, which keeps plants productive and avoids waste. Growing herbs you rarely use often leads to unused, overgrown plants.

Q3. Which herb is a perennial that thrives in Mediterranean-style conditions with well-drained soil and full sun?
  • A. Cilantro
  • B. Parsley
  • C. Thyme ✓
  • D. Dill

Why: Thyme is a woody perennial native to the Mediterranean region that prefers dry, well-drained soil and plenty of sun. Cilantro, dill, and parsley are typically short-lived or annual/biennial plants that prefer more moisture.

Q4. Why is cilantro often grown with successive sowings rather than a single planting?
  • A. It produces seeds only once every ten years
  • B. It bolts (flowers and goes to seed) quickly in warm weather, so the leaves become bitter ✓
  • C. It needs to be replanted after every harvest to survive
  • D. It cannot be grown from seed and must be purchased as seedlings

Why: Cilantro tends to bolt rapidly when temperatures rise, after which the leaves lose flavor. Sowing small batches every few weeks provides a steady supply of fresh, flavorful leaves.

Q5. Which herb is best kept in a container with its roots contained, since it can spread aggressively and crowd out other plants in a garden bed?
  • A. Oregano
  • B. Sage
  • C. Mint ✓
  • D. Bay laurel

Why: Mint spreads by underground runners and can quickly take over a garden bed. Growing it in a container is a common and practical way to keep it under control.

Module 2 Module 2: Preparing Soil and Containers

Preparing Soil and Containers

Introduction

Core content I

Core content II

Core content III

Summary

Further learning

Knowledge check

Q1. Which soil characteristic is most important for healthy herb roots to avoid rot?
  • A. High clay content that holds water tightly
  • B. Good drainage that lets excess water flow away ✓
  • C. Compacted texture that holds nutrients in place
  • D. Dark color that absorbs more sunlight

Why: Most herbs, such as thyme, rosemary, and oregano, prefer well-draining soil. Poor drainage leads to waterlogged roots, which can cause root rot.

Q2. What is a good way to improve the structure of garden soil for herbs?
  • A. Adding fresh grass clippings directly on top every day
  • B. Mixing in compost or aged organic matter ✓
  • C. Packing the soil down firmly before planting
  • D. Watering the soil until it becomes muddy

Why: Compost improves soil texture, boosts nutrients, and helps soil hold moisture while still draining well. Packing soil or making it muddy harms root growth.

Q3. Why is it important for a container used for herbs to have drainage holes?
  • A. They allow sunlight to reach the roots
  • B. They let excess water escape so roots do not sit in standing water ✓
  • C. They make the container lighter to move around
  • D. They help the plant absorb more fertilizer

Why: Drainage holes prevent water from pooling at the bottom of the pot. Without them, roots can suffocate and rot even when the top of the soil looks dry.

Q4. What is a suitable container size for a single mature herb plant such as basil?
  • A. A very small cup with no room for root growth
  • B. A pot about 6 to 8 inches wide and deep, or larger ✓
  • C. A container only as wide as the plant's leaves
  • D. Any container size, since herbs need little root space

Why: Herbs need enough room for their roots to spread. A pot around 6 to 8 inches or larger gives basil and similar herbs space to grow without becoming root-bound.

Q5. Which mixture is most suitable as a potting medium for container-grown herbs?
  • A. Garden topsoil only, straight from the yard
  • B. Pure sand with no organic material
  • C. A quality potting mix with perlite or sand added for drainage ✓
  • D. Heavy clay soil mixed with water into a paste

Why: Commercial potting mixes are lightweight and drain well, and adding perlite or sand improves aeration. Garden soil compacts in pots and clay soil drains poorly, so both are poor choices.

Module 3 Module 3: Planting and Sowing Basics

Planting and Sowing Basics

Introduction

Core content I

Core content II

Core content III

Summary

Further learning

Knowledge check

Q1. What is the main difference between sowing seeds directly in the ground and transplanting seedlings?
  • A. Seeds are sown directly where the plant will grow, while seedlings are started indoors or elsewhere and then moved outdoors ✓
  • B. Seedlings are sown directly where the plant will grow, while seeds are started indoors and then moved outdoors
  • C. Direct sowing requires fertilizer, while transplanting does not
  • D. Transplanting only works for perennial herbs, while direct sowing works for annuals only

Why: Direct sowing places seeds in their final growing position, while transplanting involves raising seedlings in containers or trays first and moving them to the garden once they are established.

Q2. Which general rule should guide how deep you plant most herb seeds?
  • A. Plant seeds on the soil surface so they receive maximum light
  • B. Plant seeds about two to three times as deep as the seed's diameter ✓
  • C. Plant seeds as deep as the full length of the seed packet
  • D. Plant all seeds exactly one inch deep regardless of size

Why: A common guideline is to sow seeds about two to three times their own diameter deep. Very fine seeds such as basil or thyme often need only a light covering, while larger seeds need more depth to stay moist and anchored.

Q3. Why do many gardeners harden off seedlings before transplanting them outdoors?
  • A. To make the seedlings grow taller faster
  • B. To gradually acclimate them to sun, wind, and temperature changes ✓
  • C. To remove the need for watering after planting
  • D. To encourage the seeds to germinate

Why: Seedlings raised indoors have tender leaves adapted to stable conditions. Hardening off over about one to two weeks, by exposing them to outdoor conditions for increasing periods, prevents sunscald, wilting, and shock.

Q4. When is the best time to direct sow hardy herbs like dill, cilantro, or parsley?
  • A. In mid-summer during the hottest weather
  • B. Only after the first autumn frost
  • C. In early spring once the soil can be worked and temperatures are cool ✓
  • D. Only in winter when the ground is frozen

Why: Cool-season herbs tolerate light frosts and germinate well in cool soil, so early spring after the soil has thawed and is workable is ideal. Dill and cilantro also bolt quickly in heat, making early sowing preferable.

Q5. What is the purpose of thinning seedlings after they emerge?
  • A. To remove weak plants that have no value
  • B. To give remaining plants enough space, light, and nutrients to grow well ✓
  • C. To help the soil retain moisture
  • D. To prepare the seeds for harvest

Why: Thinning removes excess seedlings so the ones left have room to develop full root systems and foliage. Crowded herbs compete for light and nutrients and are more prone to disease and poor growth.

Module 4 Module 4: Watering and Feeding Herbs

Watering and Feeding Herbs

Introduction

Core content I

Core content II

Core content III

Summary

Further learning

Knowledge check

Q1. What is the best general rule for watering most established herbs?
  • A. Water a little every day, even if the soil is already moist
  • B. Water deeply and let the top inch or so of soil dry out between waterings ✓
  • C. Keep the soil constantly soggy to encourage fast growth
  • D. Water only once a month regardless of weather

Why: Most herbs, especially Mediterranean types like rosemary, thyme, and oregano, prefer deep watering followed by a drying period. Constantly wet soil leads to root rot, while shallow daily watering encourages shallow roots.

Q2. Which sign most clearly suggests an herb is being overwatered?
  • A. Crispy, brown leaf edges
  • B. Yellowing lower leaves with soft, wilting stems in moist soil ✓
  • C. Tall, thin growth reaching toward light
  • D. Small flowers appearing early in the season

Why: Yellowing leaves combined with wilting in damp soil is a classic sign of overwatering, which can suffocate roots and cause rot. Crispy edges more often point to underwatering or heat stress.

Q3. Why is it generally better to water herbs at the base of the plant in the morning?
  • A. Water on leaves in the evening attracts beneficial insects
  • B. Morning watering lets foliage dry during the day, reducing fungal disease risk ✓
  • C. Herbs only absorb water at sunrise
  • D. Watering at midday makes the herbs taste stronger

Why: Watering at the base in the morning keeps leaves dry as the day warms, which lowers the chance of fungal problems like mildew. Evening watering that leaves foliage wet overnight invites disease.

Q4. Which fertilizer approach suits most culinary herbs grown for everyday use?
  • A. Heavy doses of high-nitrogen fertilizer every week
  • B. A light, balanced feeding or compost mixed in at planting, with little additional feeding ✓
  • C. Fresh manure applied directly to the leaves
  • D. Strong chemical fertilizer poured onto dry soil

Why: Many culinary herbs produce best with modest feeding. Excess nitrogen gives lush leaves with weaker flavor and oils, and too much fertilizer can burn roots.

Q5. What is a practical reason to pinch back or harvest herbs regularly?
  • A. It causes the plant to stop growing permanently
  • B. It encourages bushier growth and delays flowering, which can make leaves bitter ✓
  • C. It drains nutrients from the soil faster
  • D. It is only needed for plants grown indoors

Why: Regular harvesting or pinching stimulates side branching for a fuller plant and keeps it in leaf production. Letting herbs flower often reduces leaf flavor, especially in basil and cilantro.

Module 5 Module 5: Pruning and Harvesting Techniques

Pruning and Harvesting Techniques

Introduction

Core content I

Core content II

Core content III

Summary

Further learning

Knowledge check

Q1. When harvesting leaves from a basil plant, what is the best practice to encourage continued growth?
  • A. Remove the entire plant at the base so it can regrow from seed
  • B. Pinch or cut stems just above a leaf node, taking no more than about one-third of the plant at a time ✓
  • C. Strip all the leaves off the top of the plant in a single harvest
  • D. Cut the stems right down to the soil line every week

Why: Cutting just above a leaf node encourages the plant to branch out at that point, producing bushier growth. Taking no more than about one-third at once keeps the plant strong enough to keep producing.

Q2. Which time of day is generally considered best for harvesting most culinary herbs?
  • A. Late evening, after the plant has cooled down
  • B. Midday, when the sun is at its hottest
  • C. Early morning, after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day ✓
  • D. Right after a heavy rainstorm

Why: Essential oil concentrations tend to be highest in the morning before the heat of the day causes some oils to evaporate. Harvesting after the dew dries avoids moisture that can lead to rot or mold during storage.

Q3. What is the main purpose of pinching off the flower buds on herbs like basil and mint?
  • A. To make the plant produce more flowers later in the season
  • B. To prevent the plant from attracting pollinators to the garden
  • C. To delay the plant's shift to seed production so leaf flavor and growth continue ✓
  • D. To help the plant store more water in its roots

Why: Once an herb flowers and sets seed, it often redirects energy away from leaf production, and leaf flavor can become bitter. Removing flower buds keeps the plant focused on producing tasty foliage.

Q4. Which tool is most appropriate for harvesting woody herbs such as rosemary or thyme?
  • A. A garden hoe
  • B. A pair of clean, sharp snips or pruning shears ✓
  • C. A serrated kitchen knife dragged through the stems
  • D. Your fingernails pulled sharply along the stem

Why: Clean, sharp snips make precise cuts that heal quickly and reduce the risk of spreading disease. Dull or rough cuts can crush stems and invite infection.

Q5. Why should you avoid harvesting more than a small portion of a perennial herb like sage in its first year?
  • A. The leaves will taste too strong to use in cooking
  • B. The plant needs time to build a strong root system before it can handle heavy harvesting ✓
  • C. Sage is toxic to humans in large quantities during its first year
  • D. Harvesting early causes the plant to die back permanently

Why: Young plants devote much of their energy to establishing roots. Taking too much foliage early reduces their ability to photosynthesize and grow, so light harvesting in the first year helps the plant become productive later.

Module 6 Module 6: Pest and Disease Care

Pest and Disease Care

Introduction

Core content I

Core content II

Core content III

Summary

Further learning

Knowledge check

Q1. Which of the following is the most effective first step when you notice pests on your culinary herbs?
  • A. Spray the plants immediately with a strong chemical insecticide
  • B. Inspect the plants closely to identify the pest before taking action ✓
  • C. Remove all the herbs and discard them
  • D. Water the plants heavily to wash the pests away

Why: Correct identification of the pest is essential because different pests call for different treatments. Acting before identifying the problem can waste time or harm beneficial insects and the plant.

Q2. Aphids on herbs such as basil or mint are best managed by which method?
  • A. Leaving them alone because they rarely cause damage
  • B. Rinsing them off with a strong jet of water or wiping them away by hand ✓
  • C. Burning the herb with a torch
  • D. Adding salt to the soil around the plant

Why: Aphids are soft-bodied and can often be dislodged with a steady stream of water or by hand. This is a gentle, safe method suitable for edible herbs that you plan to eat.

Q3. Powdery mildew, a white dusty coating on herb leaves, is most often prevented by which practice?
  • A. Watering the leaves late in the evening
  • B. Planting herbs very close together with poor airflow
  • C. Providing good air circulation and watering at the soil level ✓
  • D. Keeping the soil constantly soggy

Why: Powdery mildew thrives in humid, still conditions on wet foliage. Good spacing, airflow, and watering the soil instead of the leaves reduce the conditions that allow it to spread.

Q4. Why is it generally safer to use physical or cultural controls on herbs you harvest for cooking?
  • A. Physical controls are always more expensive
  • B. Chemical residues can remain on edible leaves and may be unsafe to consume ✓
  • C. Herbs cannot absorb any substances through their leaves
  • D. Cultural controls only work on flowering plants

Why: Many pesticides leave residues on foliage that you would ingest. Physical and cultural methods, such as hand removal, water sprays, and good spacing, avoid this risk for culinary herbs.

Q5. Which practice helps reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases in a herb garden over time?
  • A. Growing the same herb in the same spot every single season
  • B. Rotating the location of plant families in your garden beds ✓
  • C. Covering the soil with plastic and never letting it breathe
  • D. Adding fresh animal manure directly to the root zone each week

Why: Crop rotation prevents disease organisms and pests that target specific plant families from building up in the soil. Moving plants to new spots each year breaks this cycle.

Module 7 Module 7: Drying, Storing and Using Herbs

Drying, Storing and Using Herbs

Introduction

Core content I

Core content II

Core content III

Summary

Further learning

Knowledge check

Q1. Which method is generally best for drying delicate herbs like basil to retain their color and flavor?
  • A. Hanging bundles upside down in a sunny window for several weeks
  • B. Dehydrating at a low temperature or air drying quickly in a dark, well-ventilated space ✓
  • C. Boiling the leaves in water until they become crisp
  • D. Placing the leaves in direct sunlight on a windowsill for one day

Why: Delicate herbs like basil lose color and volatile oils when exposed to heat or light for long periods. Quick drying at low temperature or in a dark, ventilated space preserves more flavor and color.

Q2. How can you tell when homegrown herbs are fully dry and ready for storage?
  • A. The leaves feel soft and slightly flexible when bent
  • B. The leaves are brittle and crumble easily when pressed between your fingers ✓
  • C. The leaves turn completely black throughout
  • D. The stems are still green and moist at the center

Why: Properly dried herbs are brittle and crumble easily. Any flexibility or moisture left in the leaves or stems can lead to mold during storage.

Q3. What is the best type of container for storing dried herbs?
  • A. A clear plastic bag left open on the kitchen counter
  • B. A cardboard box stored near the stove
  • C. An airtight glass jar kept in a cool, dark cupboard ✓
  • D. A metal tin placed in direct sunlight

Why: Airtight glass jars block moisture and air while a cool, dark cupboard protects herbs from heat and light, which all degrade flavor and essential oils over time.

Q4. Approximately how long do most dried herbs retain good flavor when stored properly?
  • A. About one to two years ✓
  • B. About one week
  • C. Indefinitely, with no loss of flavor
  • D. About ten years

Why: Most dried herbs maintain good flavor for roughly one to two years. After that they gradually lose potency, so it is best to label jars with the date and replace older stock.

Q5. When is the best time of day to harvest herbs intended for drying?
  • A. Late at night after the plants have rested
  • B. In the early morning after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day ✓
  • C. During the hottest part of the afternoon
  • D. Right after a heavy rain shower

Why: Harvesting in the morning, once dew has evaporated, captures the essential oils at their peak concentration before the afternoon heat reduces them. Wet herbs after rain should be avoided because excess moisture slows drying and invites mold.

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