Course outline
Module 1
Module 1: Assessing Furniture Condition
Assessing Furniture Condition
Knowledge check
Q1. When assessing a wooden chair before restoration, what is the first thing you should check for?
- A. The color of the original finish
- B. Whether the joints are loose or structurally compromised ✓
- C. The brand name stamped under the seat
- D. The price a similar chair sells for online
Why: Structural integrity comes first. Loose or failing joints must be addressed before any cosmetic work, since a cosmetic fix on an unstable piece can make later structural repair harder or cause further damage.
Q2. Which tool is most useful for checking whether a wooden table's surface has been damaged by water rings or heat marks?
- A. A magnifying glass ✓
- B. A moisture meter
- C. A tape measure
- D. A digital thermometer
Why: A magnifying glass lets you examine the finish closely to see the extent of clouding, lifting, or discoloration from water and heat. A moisture meter checks moisture content in the wood itself, not surface marks.
Q3. A dresser has a smooth, glossy finish that feels sticky in places. What does this most likely indicate?
- A. The wood is perfectly sealed and ready for use
- B. The finish is breaking down, possibly from age or a previous product applied incorrectly ✓
- C. The wood is made of solid oak
- D. The piece has been insect-treated
Why: Stickiness often signals a deteriorating finish, such as old shellac or varnish breaking down, or residue from wax or cleaning products. Identifying this helps determine the appropriate stripping or refinishing method.
Q4. What does a wobbling chair leg most commonly indicate about the piece's condition?
- A. The chair is an antique worth more money
- B. The joint connecting the leg to the frame may be loose, dried out, or failing
- C. The leg is made of a harder wood
- D. The chair was assembled with screws instead of glue
Q5. When examining an old piece of furniture, why is it important to look at the underside and back surfaces?
- A. Manufacturers always hide their signatures there
- B. Hidden areas often reveal wood type, construction methods, previous repairs, and damage that the visible surfaces may not show ✓
- C. Undersides are always made from higher quality wood
- D. Dust accumulates only on the back of furniture and must be removed before sale
Why: Hidden surfaces reveal construction clues such as joinery type, tool marks, previous repairs, pest activity, and wood species. These details inform both the condition assessment and the restoration plan.
Module 2
Module 2: Wood Types and Structure
Wood Types and Structure
Knowledge check
Q1. Which term describes the direction in which the wood fibers in a board predominantly run?
- A. Figure
- B. Grain ✓
- C. Ray
- D. Pith
Why: Grain refers to the alignment of wood fibers and cells along the length of the board. Understanding grain direction is essential in restoration because it affects how wood cuts, takes finish, and responds to moisture.
Q2. Which type of wood is classified as a hardwood?
- A. Pine
- B. Spruce
- C. Cedar
- D. Walnut ✓
Why: Hardwoods come from broadleaf, flowering trees such as oak, walnut, maple, and cherry. Softwoods like pine, spruce, and cedar come from conifers. The hardwood/softwood classification refers to the tree type, not the actual hardness of the wood.
Q3. What is the name of the central, innermost part of a tree trunk, often the oldest and least dense wood?
- A. Cambium
- B. Sapwood
- C. Heartwood
- D. Pith ✓
Why: The pith is the soft tissue at the very center of the trunk, around which the first growth rings form. It is often weak and prone to cracking, which matters when selecting stock for furniture parts.
Q4. Which layer of a tree is responsible for producing new wood and bark cells?
- A. Heartwood
- B. Sapwood
- C. Cambium ✓
- D. Phloem
Why: The cambium is a thin layer of actively dividing cells just beneath the bark. It produces new xylem (wood) toward the inside and phloem (inner bark) toward the outside, which is how trees grow in girth each year.
Q5. Sapwood is generally considered less desirable than heartwood for furniture restoration because it is:
- A. Harder and more brittle
- B. More resistant to insects and rot
- C. Lighter in color and more susceptible to decay and insect attack ✓
- D. Denser and harder to glue
Why: Sapwood contains living parenchyma cells and stored starches that attract insects and fungi, making it prone to decay and borer damage. Heartwood has deposited extractives that make it more durable, which is why it is preferred for furniture.
Module 3
Module 3: Cleaning and Surface Preparation
Cleaning and Surface Preparation
Knowledge check
Q1. Before applying any cleaning solution to an antique wood finish, what is the recommended first step?
- A. Soak the entire piece in water to loosen grime
- B. Test the solution on an inconspicuous area ✓
- C. Apply a coat of wax to protect the surface
- D. Sand the surface to remove the old finish
Why: Testing on a hidden spot reveals whether the finish will be damaged, discolored, or dissolved before you risk the visible surfaces of the piece.
Q2. Which cleaning material is generally safest for removing light dust and grime from a sealed wood surface?
- A. Steel wool soaked in mineral spirits
- B. A soft cloth lightly dampened with mild soapy water ✓
- C. Bleach diluted in hot water
- D. Coarse sandpaper
Why: A soft, barely damp cloth with mild soap lifts dirt without abrading or soaking the wood, and it avoids harsh chemicals that can strip or discolor the finish.
Q3. Why should you wipe wood dry promptly after cleaning it with any water-based solution?
- A. Water improves the shine of most finishes
- B. Standing moisture can raise the grain, swell joints, and cause staining or white rings ✓
- C. Drying prevents the cleaner from reacting with the glue
- D. Wet wood cannot be inspected for cracks
Why: Water absorbed into wood causes grain to lift, joints to swell or loosen, and can leave dark stains or white water marks in the finish.
Q4. What is the main purpose of removing old wax, grease, and polish before refinishing?
- A. To make the wood lighter in color
- B. To ensure new finishes adhere properly and do not cause fisheyes or uneven coverage ✓
- C. To soften the wood fibers for carving
- D. To remove the need for sanding later
Why: Silicones and waxes left on the surface repel new finishes, causing adhesion failures, fisheyes, and blotchy results, so thorough degreasing is essential.
Q5. When preparing a bare wood surface for a new finish, what grit range is typically used for final sanding?
- A. Coarse, around 36 grit
- B. Medium, around 80 grit
- C. Fine, around 150 to 220 grit ✓
- D. Extra coarse, around 16 grit
Why: Final sanding in the 150 to 220 range smooths the surface without leaving deep scratches, while coarser grits are reserved for stripping and leveling.
Module 4
Module 4: Repairing Joints and Structural Damage
Repairing Joints and Structural Damage
Knowledge check
Q1. Which type of wood joint is most commonly found in chair legs where a rung meets the leg?
- A. Dovetail joint
- B. Mortise and tenon joint ✓
- C. Butt joint
- D. Miter joint
Why: Mortise and tenon joints are the traditional and most common method for connecting rungs and stretchers to chair legs, providing strong resistance to racking forces.
Q2. What is the recommended first step when repairing a loose chair joint held together by old hide glue?
- A. Apply fresh epoxy directly over the old glue
- B. Disassemble the joint and clean out the old glue residue ✓
- C. Drill through the joint and insert metal screws
- D. Clamp the joint tightly without removing any glue
Why: Old glue must be removed so new adhesive can bond to clean wood. Applying new glue over old, failed glue creates a weak bond, and clamping without cleaning traps the failure in place.
Q3. Which clamp type is best suited for applying even pressure across a wide panel glue-up?
- A. C-clamp
- B. Bar clamp ✓
- C. Spring clamp
- D. Quick-release clamp
Why: Bar clamps have long beams that span wide panels and can apply consistent pressure along the length of a glue joint, which C-clamps and spring clamps cannot easily do.
Q4. What is a common cause of a cracked or split leg near a joint?
- A. Excessive surface polishing
- B. Seasonal wood movement stressing the joint against rigid construction ✓
- C. Using too fine a sandpaper grit
- D. Applying a clear finish too thinly
Why: Wood expands and contracts with humidity changes. When a joint restricts this movement, stress builds up and can split the surrounding wood, especially near glued or pinned connections.
Q5. When filling a small gap in a wooden joint before regluing, what is the most appropriate filler choice for a period piece?
- A. Wood glue mixed with sawdust from the same species ✓
- B. Automotive body filler
- C. Silicone caulk
- D. Spackling compound
Why: Glue mixed with matching sawdust creates a filler that blends with the original wood and can be stained or finished to match, preserving the piece's appearance and value. Body filler, caulk, and spackling are not suitable for fine furniture.
Module 5
Module 5: Stripping and Sanding Techniques
Stripping and Sanding Techniques
Knowledge check
Q1. What is the main purpose of stripping old finish from a piece of furniture before refinishing?
- A. To increase the wood's weight and durability
- B. To remove old, damaged, or unwanted finish so the new finish bonds properly to the bare wood ✓
- C. To change the species of the wood
- D. To remove all the wood grain from the surface
Why: Old finishes may be cracked, discolored, or uneven. Removing them exposes the bare wood so the new finish adheres evenly and looks consistent.
Q2. When sanding wood, why should you progress through successively finer grits of sandpaper?
- A. Finer grits remove material faster than coarse grits
- B. Each grit removes scratches left by the previous one, leading to a smooth surface ✓
- C. Coarse grits are only used on softwoods
- D. Finer grits help the wood absorb more stain
Why: Coarse grits remove material and flatten the surface, but leave deep scratches. Moving to finer grits gradually replaces those scratches with much smaller ones, producing a smooth finish.
Q3. Which direction should you generally sand wood?
- A. In small circles across the surface
- B. Diagonally across the grain
- C. Perpendicular to the grain
- D. Along the direction of the wood grain ✓
Why: Sanding with the grain minimizes visible scratches. Cross-grain scratches are very noticeable once finish is applied, and are difficult to remove.
Q4. What is a chemical paint stripper best suited for when restoring furniture?
- A. Removing thick, multiple layers of old finish, especially on intricate carved or detailed pieces ✓
- B. Smoothing out small dents in the wood
- C. Bleaching the wood to a lighter color
- D. Sealing the wood against moisture
Why: Chemical strippers soften old finish so it can be scraped or wiped away. They are useful for thick build-ups and detailed areas where sanding would be difficult or could damage fine details.
Q5. What safety precaution is most important when using chemical strippers?
- A. Working in a ventilated area and wearing gloves and eye protection ✓
- B. Heating the stripper to speed up its action
- C. Mixing different strippers together for stronger results
- D. Leaving the stripper on the wood for several days
Why: Many chemical strippers release harmful fumes and can irritate skin and eyes. Good ventilation, chemical-resistant gloves, and eye protection are essential for safe use.
Module 6
Module 6: Finishing and Staining Methods
Finishing and Staining Methods
Knowledge check
Q1. What is the main purpose of sanding between coats of finish?
- A. To remove all traces of the original finish
- B. To smooth raised grain and remove dust nibs so the next coat bonds well and looks even
- C. To darken the wood color before staining
- D. To open the wood pores for deeper penetration of stain
Q2. Which type of stain penetrates wood fibers and is generally easiest for beginners to apply evenly?
- A. Pigment stain
- B. Gel stain
- C. Dye stain
- D. Milk paint
Q3. Why is a pre-stain wood conditioner often recommended before staining softwoods like pine?
- A. It adds a glossy topcoat
- B. It helps prevent blotchy, uneven absorption caused by variable grain density
- C. It removes the need for sanding
- D. It converts the stain into a paint
Q4. What is the recommended approach when testing a stain color on a piece of furniture?
- A. Apply it to the most visible surface first and hope for the best
- B. Test on a hidden area or a scrap piece of the same wood, letting it dry fully before judging
- C. Test only on the wet wood immediately after application
- D. Skip testing if the color is labeled as standard
Q5. What does wiping off excess stain after a short dwell time accomplish?
- A. It removes the stain completely from the wood
- B. It controls the depth and intensity of color, leaving the stain in the pores and grain
- C. It hardens the stain into a protective film
- D. It raises the grain for later sanding
Module 7
Module 7: Protecting and Maintaining Restored Pieces
Protecting and Maintaining Restored Pieces
Knowledge check
Q1. Which finish is generally considered the most appropriate for protecting a freshly restored antique wooden table that will see regular daily use?
- A. Unsealed raw wood with no finish
- B. A shellac or polyurethane topcoat applied over the restored surface
- C. Undiluted bleach applied to the wood grain
- D. A thick layer of paraffin wax left unbuffed
Why: A protective topcoat such as shellac or polyurethane shields the wood from moisture, scratches, and everyday wear. Raw wood is vulnerable to stains and water damage, and bleach or unbuffed wax either damages the wood or leaves a sticky, uneven surface.
Q2. What is the main reason to keep restored wooden furniture away from direct heat sources such as radiators and fireplaces?
- A. Heat makes wood smell unpleasant
- B. Rapid temperature changes and dryness can cause wood to shrink, crack, or warp ✓
- C. Heat increases the shine of most finishes
- D. Heat strengthens glue joints permanently
Why: Wood expands and contracts with humidity and temperature. Sudden heat and dry air pull moisture out, which can lead to cracking, splitting, loosened joints, and warping.
Q3. How often should a restored piece with a wax finish typically be maintained with a fresh coat of paste wax?
- A. Every day
- B. Once every ten years
- C. Roughly once or twice a year, depending on use and exposure
- D. Never, wax is permanent
Why: Paste wax wears away with handling and cleaning, so it needs periodic renewal, usually about once or twice a year depending on how heavily the piece is used.
Q4. Which cleaning practice is safest for protecting a restored wood surface?
- A. Scrubbing with steel wool and strong detergent
- B. Dusting with a soft, dry cloth and wiping spills promptly with a barely damp cloth
- C. Soaking the surface in water to remove grime
- D. Using abrasive kitchen cleaners on a regular basis
Why: Soft dusting and prompt, gentle spill removal protect the finish. Abrasives, harsh detergents, and soaking can scratch, dull, or swell the wood and finish.
Q5. Why should you place coasters, felt pads, or protective mats under objects on a restored piece?
- A. To make the furniture heavier
- B. To prevent scratches, heat rings, and moisture marks on the finish
- C. To change the color of the wood
- D. To increase the value of the piece automatically
Why: Coasters, pads, and mats keep hot, wet, or abrasive items from directly contacting the finish, preventing heat rings, water marks, and scratches that are difficult to repair.